The Turquoise Trail: Jewelry & Ancestral Designs

The inspiration for my jewelry comes in part from my Hopi background and traditions, where creativity and working with your hands are a large part of the culture. My work as an archaeologist also influences my jewelry, as I am able to see first-hand how my ancestors used natural materials to express themselves through their personal adornment.

Ancestral jewelry designs.
Shell & Turquoise mosaics from various ancestral sites.

I am drawn to the organic nature of ancestral designs, which is why I choose the styles and materials I work with, such as various turquoise, stone, shell, and other natural sources. My interest in ancestral jewelry has also led me into various aspects of turquoise research, including trade networks, turquoise sourcing and other materials used.

“T-Door” made with Ironwood & Turquoise mosaic inlay.
Shell and Turquoise mosaic Thunderbird, strung on shell heishi and turquoise nugget necklace.

I prefer to acquire the materials I use in the “rough”. Meaning that the material has not already been manufactured into a finished state, such as cabochons. Being able to work the material from rough to finished product is part of the appeal of doing this type of work.

Turquoise nuggets from the Fox Mine, NV.
Turquoise rough from Inyo County, CA.

Making my jewelry in the manner I do gives me insight as to the process, skills and patience that my ancestors used in their own creations. Thus, when I am doing fieldwork and encounter ancestral jewelry, I have a better understanding and appreciation for what they accomplished.

Mosaics w/Jet, Turquoise & Variscite.
Mosaics w/Turquoise & other materials, inlaid in cottonwood root.
Jet heishi, blue glass beads &
Variscite nuggets, NV.
Shell heishi w/turquoise nuggets from the #8 Mine (NV), Fox Mine and Inyo County.

I handcraft wearable artwork such as pendants, necklaces and earrings. My work consists of mosaic inlays, slabs and natural free-forms. I inlay or back my materials using cottonwood root that I collect myself. I also use Ironwood, which is slightly heavier, and offers a darker contrast.

Deer antler earrings & awl, inlaid with Turquoise & Jet.
Mammoth ivory w/Turquoise inlay.
Wood burned hallmark with Hopi Greasewood & Snake clan symbols representing my Maternal and Paternal clans.
Slab earrings made with “Cochise” Turquoise from the Cochise Mining District, AZ.

If you have any questions feel free to send me an email at: lyle.balenquah@gmail.com